Jack Guttentag Founder, Upfront Mortgage Broker's Association
"Why do most home mortgage lenders sell their mortgages instead of keeping them? I have a problem with negotiating my mortgage deal with one firm over a week, then having my loan sold to another firm that I did not select, and with whom I am obliged to deal for as long as 30 years. Is it possible for me to find a lender who will promise not to sell my loan?"
Mortgage lenders comprise two very different types of institution. The
largest number are mortgage companies, or as they prefer to be called, mortgage
banks. Mortgage banks are state-chartered temporary lenders who must sell the
loans they originate because they do not have the long-term funding needed to
hold them permanently.
Mortgage banks borrow large amounts, but only for the short periods they must
hold mortgages prior to their sale. The unsold mortgages serve as collateral for
these loans. As the mortgages are sold, the loans are repaid.
Mortgage bankers need very little capital because they have excellent
collateral to secure the short-term loans they need to operate. To hold
mortgages permanently would require long-term funding sources, which in turn
would require much more capital. That is a different business.
While mortgage banks always sell the mortgages they originate, they may
retain the servicing under contract with the buyer. Where servicing is retained,
borrowers continue to deal with the same firms that loaned them the money in the
first place. Over the years, however, servicing has become quite concentrated
among larger firms, and most mortgage banks today no longer service mortgages.
They are strictly in the mortgage origination business. The upshot is that
borrowers who take loans from mortgagee banks rarely have their loans serviced
by the same firm.
The second type of mortgage lender is the depository institution: commercial
banks, savings and loan associations, savings banks and credit unions. These
institutions are chartered by both the federal and state governments to provide
a wide variety of financial instruments to consumers and businesses, including
deposits or deposit-type instruments, and many types of loans including home
mortgages. Among these groups, only savings and loan associations have viewed
themselves historically as being primarily home mortgage lenders, and since
being badly burned in this market in the 1980s, their commitment today is not
nearly as strong as it used to be.
Depository institutions have the capacity to hold mortgages permanently in
their portfolios, if they want to, and some do. They have more capital than
mortgage banks, and deposits typically provide a more-or-less stable funding
source. But depositories can also sell mortgages in the secondary market, the
same way that mortgage banks do, if the mortgages they write don't fit into
their portfolio strategies.
Many depositories have a general policy of holding any adjustable-rate
mortgages (ARMs) that they write, but selling fixed-rate mortgages (FRMs) in the
secondary market. This policy evolved after the interest-rate explosion of the
early 1980s, which bankrupted many savings and loans holding FRMs. In a
rising-rate environment, a depository's cost of funds will rise much more
rapidly than the income it earns on a portfolio of FRMs.
Some borrowers such as the one whose letter I reproduced above are nostalgic
for the old system, which existed before there were mortgage banks, when your
mortgage lender was your mortgage lender until the loan was paid off. Loans were
not sold and all lenders serviced the loans they made.
Is it possible for a borrower today to find a lender who will operate that
way? Such a commitment could not be made by a mortgage bank -- it would have to
come from a depository that serviced its own mortgages, and that was prepared to
give up the right to sell them.
I seriously doubt that any depository would commit never to sell its FRMs,
but it is possible that they would do it for ARMs, The marketing possibilities
are certainly intriguing; here are some un-copyrighted tag lines: "We are your
lender for life, guaranteed." "We don't abuse customers we plan to keep." "We
believe in long-term relationships, not casual encounters."
Borrowers were never consulted about the changes in industry practice that
resulted in their being thrust into long-term business relationships with firms
they did not select. There were side benefits to these changes, of course,
including much greater competition for loans and easier lending terms. Still, it
would be good if borrowers could choose a lender for life, even at a slightly
higher price, and even if they have to take an ARM. Right now, they have no such
choice.
The writer is professor of finance emeritus at the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania. Comments and questions can be left at www.mtgprofessor.com. Copyright 2008 Jack Guttentag
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| Loan Type |
Interest Rate |
APR |
| 5/1 ARM |
5.750% |
5.873% |
| 7/1 ARM |
6.000% |
6.125% |
| 15-yr Fixed |
5.500% |
5.753% |
| 30-yr Fixed |
6.000% |
6.153% |
Rates are current as of 9-5-08, and are based upon a conforming loan amount, 740+ credit, full documentation, and
a loan-to-value of 80% or less.
Click here for a custom rate quote
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Benny Kass Attorney,
Senior Member of Kass, Mitek & Kass, PLLC
DEAR BENNY: I was told by a prominent accountant that there is a loophole in the law that states that you can be exempt from paying capital gains (if you are in a home less than the two-year period) if there are "unforeseen circumstances" involved. Are you aware of this? Can you doublecheck to make sure? This accountant is well trusted by a lot of businesspeople! At the time I was going through an "unforeseen" divorce. --Patricia
DEAR PATRICIA: In general, in order to take advantage of the up-to-$500,000
exclusion of gain ($250,000 if you file a separate tax return), you have to own
and live in the house for two out of the five years before it is sold. However,
the law does allow a partial exclusion under certain circumstances. There are
three "safe harbors" (meaning that if you meet these tests the IRS will not
challenge you): (1) change in employment; (2) health; and (3) unforeseen
circumstances. In this third category, if you could not have anticipated an
event before you purchased your house, you may also be able to claim a partial
exclusion. While this is fact-specific -- and in many cases you will have to get
a special ruling from the IRS -- there also are some safe harbors that the IRS
will recognize. These include: an involuntary conversion of your house; natural
or manmade disasters resulting in a casualty to your home; divorce or legal
separation; and multiple births resulting from the same pregnancy.
It would appear that you may qualify based on your divorce. The exclusion is
equal to the number of days of use times the quotient of $500,000 divided by 730
days. Note that 730 days is two full years. If you are single -- or do not file
a joint tax return -- change the $500,000 to $250,000.
Your accountant knows what he is talking about so you should ask him to do
the calculations. However, I do not think he said that you can escape all
capital gains tax.
DEAR BENNY: The neighborhood that I live in is going downhill, with a
couple of empty houses on my street that look like they may be foreclosures or
REOs, and there are also several others for sale. And to make it worse I will
have negative equity in my property and probably need to do a short sale. I have
both a first and second mortgage (HELOC), but from two different mortgage
companies. What steps do I need to take to find a Realtor that handles this, and
will having a second mortgage be a problem in respect to the short sale? --Pam
DEAR PAM: The first thing I would do is talk with your lenders. Because there
are so many foreclosures taking place all over this country, many lenders would
prefer to work with you to possibly reduce your mortgage interest rate rather
than have another house in foreclosure.
Additionally, there are many government and private programs available (or
soon to be available) to assist people in financial difficulty.
But a short sale will be difficult unless you can reach an amicable
arrangement with the holder of the second trust.
DEAR BENNY: Do you know of any books or brochures that help explain the
responsibilities of a condominium developer/owner? We live in an unfinished
condo development in St. Louis. There are construction and maintenance issues
that the current residents believe are the responsibility of the
owner/developer, not the condo association. The items/issues are not covered in
the bylaws. --Natalie
DEAR NATALIE: There is an organization in Virginia known as the Community
Associations Institute. You can find them on the Web at
caionline.org. This group has a number
of valuable resources that may be helpful to you, including books and
publications on a number of community association subjects as well as suggested
names of attorneys who may be of assistance in helping you learn your rights.
DEAR BENNY: I have just found out that my neighbor's septic tank leach
line and leach pit is on my property. I was going to buy the property when it
was recently up for sale, but I was not given the chance. I did file a lawsuit
against the seller. The contract purchaser has not yet taken title to the
property. Do I have a legal claim against not just the seller but the buyer if
he does indeed go to closing and take possession of the property? I am hoping
that after the buyer learns that there is a lawsuit on the property, he will
back off and not buy it. What happens in a case like this? --Leo
DEAR LEO: You have filed a lawsuit that should put the title (escrow) company
on notice. You or your attorney should contact both the title company as well as
the buyer and advise them of the lawsuit. There is a concept in law called "lis
pendens," meaning that litigation is pending. Ask your attorney if he is able to
file this lis pendens document in your case and have it recorded among the land
records on your neighbor's property. Clearly, the title (escrow) company will
see that there is a pending lawsuit when it searches the title for the buyer.
The buyer would be foolish to buy the property until your lawsuit is
resolved.
I would also try to reach an amicable arrangement with the buyer. After all,
if he does buy the property, he will be your next-door neighbor.
Benny L. Kass is a practicing attorney in Washington, D.C., and Maryland. No legal relationship is created by this column.
Questions for this column can be submitted to benny@inman.com
Copyright 2008 Benny Kass
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Dian Hymer Realtor, Author
One of the best ways to avoid getting into an ugly dispute involving a home purchase or sale is to be proactive. In order to do this, you need to be aware of the sorts of issues that can lead to disputes. By knowing what could possibly go wrong, you can prepare yourself to recognize a potential problem if it arises.
A common complaint that can end in a dispute is that the agent didn't act in
the best interests of the party being represented; that is, the buyer or seller.
Real estate agents who represent buyers or sellers in a transaction owe their
client a fiduciary duty to put their client's interests above others in the
transaction.
Buyers and sellers might be entitled to take legal action against agents who
breached their fiduciary duty. But, why put yourself in a situation where you
need to engage in a legal battle if you don't have to?
Before you select an agent to represent you, make a careful search to find an
agent who understands what it means to owe a fiduciary duty to you. You are
looking for real estate agents who value the quality of service they provide.
Select professionals to represent you who will put your interests first.
Personal acquaintances are often good sources of real estate agent
recommendations.
Some of the most serious disputes arise over material facts that should have
been disclosed to the buyers, but weren't. A material fact is something that
might affect a buyer's decision to buy or the price a buyer would pay.
Disclosure laws vary from one state to another. But, generally, sellers are
required to disclosure material facts when they sell.
HOUSE HUNTING TIPS: Sellers should take their disclosure requirements
seriously. They not only protect the buyer, but they protect the seller from
being sued after closing over something that should have been disclosed upfront.
Consult with your real estate agent or real estate attorney if you have any
questions about what you do and do not need to disclose.
Real estate agents are also required to disclose material facts about a
property to buyers. Sometimes sellers don't want to disclose facts about their
home that they think might deter the sale. However, if you, or your agent,
conceal a known material fact, a costly dispute could arise.
Disputes can arise over a failure of expectations. Clear and complete
communication can usually keep these sorts of problems from arising. For
example, let's say you are the buyer and you plan to move into the home you're
buying the day the transaction closes. The seller is moving out the day before
closing and is planning to leave the house broom swept and free of debris. If
you are expecting carpets to be cleaned, floors polished and windows washed, you
could be sorely disappointed.
To avoid a problem like this, ask your agent to find out if the seller is
planning to have the house professionally cleaned before you move in. If not,
and if this is not something required of the seller in your purchase agreement,
make arrangements to have cleaners come in the morning of closing so that you
aren't disappointed, and so that your move is not delayed.
Disputes over who is entitled to the deposit if a deal doesn't go through are
all too common. The answer to these questions usually involves a legal opinion.
So, before making a claim, get legal advice from a knowledgeable real estate
attorney.
THE CLOSING: Even though you're upset that the buyer is backing out, you may
not be entitled to keep the buyer's deposit, depending on the terms of the
purchase agreement.
Dian Hymer is author of "House Hunting, The Take-Along Workbook for Home Buyers" and "Starting Out, The Complete Home Buyer's Guide," Chronicle Books. Copyright 2008 Dian Hymer
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Paul Bianchina Contractor, Author
One way to really dress up a room and try your hand at some different decorating techniques is to consider wainscoting. There are a number of ways to combine materials to create some very attractive wainscoting effects, and the cost doesn't need to be prohibitive.
Traditionally, wainscoting is tongue and groove boards or raised or flat
paneling sections that are applied to the lower part of a wall. The wainscoting
extends from the top of the baseboard up to a height of usually between 3 and 5
feet off the floor, and is topped off with a horizontal molding. In addition to
its decorative appeal, wainscoting had the very practical advantage of
protecting the lower portion of the wall from wear and tear.
Today, however, wainscoting has taken on a somewhat less specific definition.
It can be just about any combination of materials, including paint, wood,
wallpaper and even fabric.
A wainscoting application consists of three elements: the lower portion of
the wall, the upper portion of the wall, and the dividing line between the two.
How you mix and match those three elements is up to your individual taste and
budget.
Splitting Up The Wall
One of the first things to decide for any wainscoting project is where the
dividing line will be between the two different materials. For a room with an
8-foot-high ceiling, a division of approximately 3 feet on the lower half and 5
feet on the upper half tends to give the best balance. Many Craftsman-style
homes used the reverse of that, with about 5 feet of paneling on the lower half,
capped with a wider molding that was suitable for shallow storage. For best
appearance, the dividing line should not be exactly half way up the wall.
To get a better idea of how different proportions will work, tape some
newspaper or other material on the wall at a couple of different heights. This
will give you a better representation of how the two halves will balance out,
and you can adjust them accordingly.
Installing Traditional Wainscoting
To achieve the look of a board wainscoting, you can install individual
narrow, tongue and groove boards; you can install wider boards that are milled
on the face to look like two or three narrower boards, which simplifies
installation; or you can install 4-foot-wide beaded paneling, which again
replicates the look of individual boards but installs faster. With any of these
methods, finish off the top of the boards with a horizontal molding such as a
wainscot cap or a chair rail.
For a paneled look, there are kits available that include a routed base
molding, a routed top molding, routed vertical strips, and the panels
themselves. The pieces all interlock with one another, and as long as you take
some time with the layout to ensure that the panels are balanced to the width of
the wall, you can achieve a beautiful, traditional paneled wainscoting in a
relatively short time. If you are an avid woodworker, there are specialized
router bits that help you cut the individual pieces yourself and save some
money.
With wood, you have the choice of painting or staining the material to get
the look you want. For painting, the boards and paneling are available in
medium-density fiberboard (MDF), which paints nicely and is less expensive than
solid wood. For stained wainscoting, you can select from pine, fir, oak, cherry,
maple and other woods.
Wood strips, paneling and moldings can all be found at most home centers and
lumberyards, along with all the installation materials you need. Some larger
stores also carry the paneling kits, or they can order them for you. You will
also find a wide selection of wainscoting paneling kits online.
Other Wainscoting Materials
In addition to traditional wood, there are lots of other material
combinations that will work very well together. You can experiment with
different combinations of materials to achieve the exact look that works for
your décor. In general, heavier materials such as wood and fabric look best on
the lower half of the wall. Also, darker paint colors and darker, more heavily
patterned wallpapers look best on the bottom.
Your wainscoting choice may be something as simple as two different colors of
paint. You can also use a solid paint on one section of the wall, and some type
of textured paint effect on the other section.
Another easy wainscoting can be achieved with two different wallpapers.
Select a lighter paper with a more open pattern for the upper half of the wall,
and a darker paper or one with a vertical stripe or heavy pattern for the
bottom. You can also combine the two materials by using paint on one section of
the wall and wallpaper on the other.
With any of these combinations, separate the two sections of wall with a
painted or stained wood molding. To really accent the installation, finish
everything off with a crown molding as well.
Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paul2887@ykwc.net.
Copyright 2008 Inman News
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